Lanvin Is Back On The Runway Exuding The Spirit of Jeanne Lanvin

The Fall 2025 collection unveiled during Men’s Fashion Week Is party glam with a lot of vintage nods

Britt Lower (left) and Chiwetel Ejiofor sitting front row | Photo provided by Lanvin

So, Peter Copping unveiled his first runway collection yesterday for the House of Lanvin during Men’s Fashion Week. “This collection is deeply personal – an homage to Jeanne Lanvin’s world and her intimate sense of style. I sought to project the essence of her wardrobe today while imagining it on a cast of modern characters — which I hope you’ll enjoy to discover,” says Copping in collection notes.” The co-ed Fall 2025 collection saw the likes of actors Chiwetel Ejiofor and Britt Lower (from Severance), and Dutch photographers Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin sitting front row.

The brand has been on a runway hiatus the past few years due to a revolving door of women’s artistic directors and low sales, but the brand that started in 1889 from a millinery shop in Paris has maintained a presence on red carpets from Cannes to Venice. Since Copping took the helm in 2024, we’ve all be anxiously awaiting Lanvin’s comeback and yesterday’s show satiated inquiring minds. 

Looks in the collection, themed “Á La Maison” are film premier perfect, but not award’s season red carpet ready, though nonetheless, it is filled with shimmery silhouettes that represents Lanvin’s homecoming. As the House notes, “it’s a collection with an outlook innately dedicated to the attitude and ethic of its founder, with remembered nuances of archival styles, her creativity.”

Women’s Looks | Photo provided by Lanvin

Men’s Looks | Photo provided by Lanvin

For women, leather draped tops are matched with a fitted black skirt, a mesh cape-like top with crystals is paired with black pants, an off-the-shoulder gold gown with a fitted bodice and messy skirting makes for the perfect party dress; and for men loose pants paired with embroidered sweaters, a turtleneck sweater is paired with a single-breasted coat, while an emerald jacket offsets the pants its paired with, as all exude a Jeanne Lanvin chic touch- something the House’s founder was known for.

Copping drew inspiration from motifs drawn from Jeanne Lanvin’s home, as well as from emblems from her Maison. ‘J’ and ‘L’ are seen throughout cuts in the silhouettes, and in the design of the accessories. The artistic director also includes the essence of Couture in the collection, imposing draping an embroidery on t-shirts, sweaters, and trench coats.

Copping’s resume is extensive. After graduating from Central Saint Martins in London, he entered fashion by working at Sonia Rykiel, and spent time at Louis Vuitton (under Marc Jacobs), Balenciaga’s haute couture wing, Nina Ricci, and Oscar de la Renta. Before Copping, Bruno Sialelli was artistic director and when he left in 2023 the brand’s revenue took over a $9M hit, but the company has hopes for growth.

This month the Lanvin Group announced leadership and board changes, with Eric Chan moving from CEO to a director on the board, while Andy Lew has become Executive President of the Lanvin Group. These changes are brought about to bring extensive growth and new initiatives to the brand, that must navigate luxury fashion’s troubled waters. It was announced on Thursday by Business of Fashion, via Bloomberg that Chanel will cut 70 jobs. In these unclear times for luxury fashion, brands like Lanvin are finding ways of staying relevant with plans for growth.

Overall, it’s a collection of Parisian sensibility and savoir-faire, dynamic shapes, and retro vibes that juxtapose modernity.