Pierpaolo Piccioli Plays With Femininity and Masculinity In Valentino’s AW20 Collection

Pierpaolo Piccioli surprised us all at Valentino’s womenswear AW20 show in Paris. Unlike Hedi Slimane, Pierpaolo isn’t predictable, and missing from this collection are his typical volumes and bright colors. This collection is all about tailoring and fluidity- incorporating masculinity into the femininity. There is quite a bit of tailored menswear looking pieces, but then you find under a military style coat, an embroidered blouse that brings in the femininity. He wanted to be sure to bring how how humans are different and the same, and this is what brings humanity together.

Also, where Pierpaolo brought in a lot of color in past collections, autumn-winter 2020 is filled mainly with dark colors and the classic Valentino red. Floral prints and embroidery were not missing, as we have seen in past collections, but they were done mostly in grayscale on the fronts of jackets and coats.

In the 89-piece collection there is quite a clash and contrast. It was even in the music for the show, as models strutted down the runway to a Billie Eilish track, while Le Traffic Quintet performed live to a tune of the contrasting collection that Pierpaolo surprised us with. With feminine looks there is something for the woman of the Levant, who gravitates more to the classical and the refined. And for the fluid masculine punk elements of rebellion- from the make-up of the models on the runway to the thick combat boots- Pierpaolo has incorporated something for the Riyadh woman who enjoys the streetwear trend taking over that city.